I have bought an OEM panel for the Main Instrument Panel on the captains side. Again OEM means that it is an original panel from a real aircraft. This fits perfectly with the OEM AFDS-panel that I bought a few months ago. Not I have a complete OEM panel in my cockpit!

It is actually a pretty simple panel – a few annunciators and a few switches. But it is the centerpiece of the entire cockpit when in the captain’s chair. So I am very excited about this. The panel came with lightplate for the DU-selectors, a single rotary switch (So I had to install one non-OEM), the lighttest/dim switch, 5 Korry 318 annunciators and the Korry 432 Stab Out of trim annunciator. It also has the “TakeOff Config” And “Cabin Altitude” annunciators which I am happy about.

As always interfacing an original piece of hardware in a simulator-setup requires a bit of work. The rotary switches are pretty strait forward. But be aware they are wired to both cannon-plugs on the back. So grab a multimeter and start figuring out the wiring to the cannon plugs in the back. The Light test / Dim switch caused me a bit of headache. The Korry switches / annunciators needs some work as they share some of the wiring. I am going through it in this video.

First I recommend you read the article on Korry 318’s on flaps2approach.com. It covers how to do it. But to break it down:

Korry switches are common anode. That means you need a shared positive 28v (24v can do). And the ground wire is the one that runds individually to your interface board. Luckily there are wiring diagrams on each Korry

On a korry switch you also need a steady ground it order to perform the push-to-test function. The wiring of a regular Korry 318 looks like this:

Pin 1 – Steady + 28v
Pin 2 – Individual ground from Interface borad
Pin 3 – Light test – Not needed
Pin 4 – Steady Ground.

Pin 3 is hard wired light test getting a signal directly from the “Light test switch”. However in a simulator setup the light test normally is software controlled. So pin 3 must be bypassed from the Light Test switch. I ended up removing most of the wires from the light test / light dim switch and just have one set of wires going to/from the plug on the back. The “Light Dim” function is also hardware controlled and not needed in a simulator set-up – again because this is handled by the software and interface boards. A lot of the wiring was removed because it was redundant and performed functions not needed. So just to make sure there would be no conflict between hardware controlled and software controlled light tests or dimming.

The “Below G/S” korry is a bit different that the other Korry 318 switches. It carries the same number “Korry 318” Partnumber is 318-015-000. If is different because it has 5 terminals on the back and do not have the push-to-test function. Therefore the steady GND is not needed. Pin 2 and Pin 5 is the steady +28v and the GND from your interface board. Pin 3+4 act like a switch. Pin 1 is for the hard wired light test and should not be connected.

The “Stab out of trim” Korry annunciator is a Korry 432. It is independently wired. Inside there are two sets of lightbulbs (2 on the right and 2 on the left). Each side is wired to each of the two cannon plugs on the back. There was a loose connection on my annunciator. It only worked when given a slight push. So with the help of a bit of hot glue it is now held in place.

I am not able to find matching cannon plugs (21 pin and 41 pin, female, outside bayonet) So I have extended the wiring from the cannon plugs to a set of db9 / db15 / db25 plugs. From there the wires run back to the interface boards

For interfacing I am using my CP-flight MIP board for the switches. As the annunciators are running on 28v I need another solution. So I am utilizing an extension board for pokeys called a PoExtBus16. It provides 16 outputs that can run anything from 5 to 48 volt.

Pinout

The two Cannon plugs on the back have the pinout as shown below. Pin numbers that are stroke through do not exist on the cannon plug (Empty hole). There was no rotary switch for the lower DU on my panel. So I do not know what pin does what for the lower DU

MIP /// CPT-side /// DU-panel J1

1	Back light +5v	21	Main DU – Inbd MDF
2	Bac klight GND	22	Main DU GND
3		23	Main DU Outbd PDF
4	Below G/S – Pin 3	24	Main DU NORM
5	Below G/S – Pin 4	25
6	Below G/S – Pin 2	26
7		27
8		28	LED: Stab Trim Left +28v
9		29	LED: Stab Trim Left  GND
10		30
11		31
12		32
13		33
14		34	Light Test Bright
15	Lower DU	35	Light Test Bright GND
16	Lower DU	36	Light test?
17	Lower DU	37	Light test?
18	Lower DU	38	Light test?
19	Main DU Inbd Eng Pri	39	Light test?
20	Main DU Inbd PDF	40	Light Test Dim
		41	Light Test Dim GND

MIP /// CPT-side /// DU-panel J2

1		13	Pin 2 – Cabin Alt
2		14	Korry 3 – All
3	+28v – Stab Trim Right	15	Lower DU –  (Sleved)
4		16	Lower DU – (Sleved)
5	Pin 2 – SpdBrk Armed	17	Lower DU – (Sleved)
6	Korry 4 – All	18	Lower DU – (Sleved)
7	Pin 2 – SpedBrk Not Arm	19	Main DU Inbd Eng Pri(Sleved)
8	Pin 1 – Below G/S 1	20	Main DU Inbd PDF (Sleved)
9	Korry 1: Extras	21	Main DU – Inbd MDF (Slev)
10	GND – Stab Trim Right	22	Main DU GND  (Sleved)
11	Pin 1 – SpedBrk Not Arm	23	Main DU Outbd PDF (Slev)
12	Pin 2 – TakeOff Config	24	Main DU NORM (Sleved)

Wiring the different parts are shown in this tabel

MIP /// CPT-side /// DU-panel – Annunciators

Below G/S	1 – GND 28v	J2 – 08
	2 – GND 28v	J1 – 06
	3 – Switch
	4 – Switch
	5  + 28v		J2 – 09

Cabin ALT	1  + 28v		J2 – 09
	2 – GND 28v	J2 – 13
	3		J2 – 14
	4 – GND 28v		J2 – 06

Takeoff Config	1  + 28v		J2 – 09
	2 – GND 28v	J2 – 12
	3		J2 – 14
	4 – GND 28v		J2 – 06

SpdBrk Armed	1  + 28v		J2 – 11
	2 – GND 28v	J2 – 05
	3		J2 – 14
	4 – GND 28v		J2 – 06

SpdBrk Don’t arm	1  + 28v		J2 – 11
	2 – GND 28v	J2 – 07
	3		J2 – 14
	4 – GND 28v		J2 – 06

Stab Trim	1  + 28v	J2 – 03
	2
	3
	4 – GND 28v	J2 – 10

MIP /// CPT-side /// DU-panel – Switches

Backlight	5v	J1 – 01
	GND	J1 – 02

Main DU	GND	J2 – 22
	Outbd PDF	J2 – 23
	Norm	J2 – 24
	Eng Pri	J2 – 19
	PFD	J2 – 20
	MDF	J2 – 21

Lower DU *	GND	J2 – 15
	Eng Pri	J2 – 16
	Norm	J2 – 17
	ND	J2 – 18

• Lower DU: Own wiring. Not OEM wiring

Light	GND	J1 – 35 + J1 – 41
	Test	J1 – 34
	Dim	J1 – 40

Below G/S	GND	J1 – 04
	Push	J1 – 05